recipes

Video: Homemade Wild Garlic Aioli

Sun, 20 Jul 2008 22:32:20 -0400

THE RECIPE
Wild Field Garlic Aioli
(adapted from Alice Waters' The Art of Simple Food)

prep time: 20-30 minutes
refrigeration time: 1 hour (this lets the flavors settle)

Between 10 & 20 peeled bulbs of wild field garlic (or the equivalent of 2-3 commercial garlic cloves)
1 egg yolk (if desired along with another refrigerated egg yolk on hand if you screw up, like I often do)
1/2 teaspoon water
1 cup olive oil (you can choose a milder oil, or a fruitier oil for a more fragrant aioli)
pinch of kosher salt

I find that the only tools you really need for making aioli in small batches, are the essential mortar and pestle, a bowl and a wire whisk. A mixer I find more trouble than its worth in recipe like this. I like the organic, hands-on process, as well as having more control with the whisk. Pound the garlic bulbs into a paste with a mortar and pestle, adding the salt for friction. Set aside. Separate into a large-ish mixing bowl, an egg yolk. Elizabeth David notes that if you chill your egg yolks in advance they are easier to work with, so when I have the time, I do this. Add half of your garlic paste to the egg yolk along with 1/2 teaspoon of water. The ever-wise godmother of American slow food, Alice Waters, advises that you start with half of your garlic, as you can always add more, but cannot take away. Mix the garlic, egg and water mixture well with a wire whisk. Have olive oil in a vessel with a pour spout so that you can easily and very gently, dribble oil into the egg yolk mixture while constantly whisking. When the mixture becomes a bit thicker and opaque and the egg yolk has begun to absorb the oil, you can continue adding oil a bit more quickly, still constantly whisking. Sometimes an egg yolk may be a bit too small to absorb a cup of oil and the aioli has trouble thickening. This happens to me often. I am getting better at it, but luckily the situation is easily rectified by using that emergency egg yolk. Simply transfer the working aioli mixture back to your pour-spout vessel, place the emergency egg yolk in a mixing bowl, beat well and start again, slowly dribbling the thin aioli mixture into the new egg yolk whisking all the while.

When your mixture has reached a thick opacity, you're done. If it's too thick for your liking, add a bit more water and mix. Season as desired, adding more garlic and salt and refrigerate up to an hour before use. There are lots of variations on aioli. I like to add lemon juice and capers for a fish sauce, or to add to smoked fish for a breakfast fish salad. Fine herbs like summer savory, chervil, chive and tarragon can be added individually or all together for a delicious herbed aioli. Omit the garlic if desired and replace with lemon juice and use in lieu of mayonnaise for devilled eggs. Rich and decadent...a bit more refined than your average BBQ devilled egg. And it's just plain delicious on a ham and cheese sandwich or a grilled cheeseburger... Lunchtime!

Ricotta Cheese Pie and Other Delish Delights

Mon, 3 Mar 2008 21:29:18 -0500

THE ROOT: This wholesome and rustic cheese pie, made from our homemade ricotta-like farmer's cheese, is a great way to end a meal or begin a day. With a spoonful of preserves in the morning or a fresh whipped brandied cream after dinner, this dessert is just down-homed goodness on a plate!

Ricotta Cheese Pie
serves: 8 (and they'll love you for it!)
For crumb crust: prep time: 20 minutes
Chill time: 15 minutes--1hour, no baking time

1 ½ level cups flour, gently spooned into measuring cup
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/8 tsp salt
1/4 cup raw or turbinado sugar
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp grated lemon rind
1 large egg, beaten with 1 tsp cold water

In large bowl combine flour, salt, sugar, baking powder and lemon rind. Cut butter into combined ingredients with 2 butter knives or a pastry cutter. Get butter bits down to the size of peas. Drizzle beaten egg and water over the combined ingredients and mix by lifting with a fork. Allow eggs to evenly moisten the ingredients. Press crust mixture into a buttered 9-inch pie pan. Chill between 15 minutes and an hour. (The longer you chill, the less the cheese filling runs into the crust.)

Cheese Filling:
prep time: 10 minutes
baking time: 15 minutes at 450 degrees, 30 minutes--1hour at 350 degrees

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
2 cups homemade ricotta, or soft farmer's cheese
4 eggs, slightly beaten
1/4 cup white sugar
1/4 cup raw, or turbinado sugar
1 tsp vanilla
fresh grated nutmeg

Combine all ingredients together, adding eggs last, beating well until a fairly smooth and airy consistency is reached. Pour ingredients into the un-baked crumb crust and bake in a 450 degree preheated oven for 15 minutes, reducing oven temperature to 350 degrees and baking for another 30 minutes, or until knife comes out clean. Sometimes it's taken my pie as long as an additional hour to bake. Depending on weather and any additional ingredients you stir in, like fruit puree, it will take longer to bake thoroughly. Refrigerate to store; can serve cold or room temperature.

Serve with any of the following:
additional lemon zest
fresh whipped cream, (dash of brandy or dark rum optional)
stewed berries with a dash of sugar,
homemade preserves (i.e., apricot, fig, blueberry, black currant)
Fresh seasonal berries

Farmer’s Cheese Breakfast

1-2 cups homemade farmer's cheese
Add to taste:
dried currants
fennel seeds
flax seeds
crushed nuts
jam or honey or maple syrup

Dill Seed Farmer's Cheese Round

2 cups homemade farmer's cheese, unsalted

Add:
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/4-1/2 cup dill seed, to your taste

Place in center of 6 inches rinsed cheese cloth. Twist and drain off any excess moisture. Create size of cheese round desired by flattening cloth wrapped cheese between board and a weighted board: think pressed flowers. After an hour or so you will have a mini round of hard, fresh cheese. Serve it up with a smoked fish and rye crackers.

Video: Homemade Ricotta Cheese

Mon, 3 Mar 2008 21:24:12 -0500

THE RECIPE
Homemade Farmer's Cheese
yields: about 2 lbs cheese, 3 quarts of whey
time involved: about 1 hour

1 gallon whole, pasteurized milk
½ cup distilled white vinegar
2 teaspoons salt (use sea salt, kosher salt...be creative)

Equipment:
large pot
collander
large bowl (to catch the whey)
fine cheesecloth, or butter muslin/cheesecloth

In a large pot, simply bring the milk to a slow boil, making sure to stir frequently to prevent burning or sticking. When your milk has reached a temperature of at least 200 degrees or a boil, slowly add ½ cup of vinegar in small increments at a time. The separation will begin soon after all the vinegar is added. Keep stirring until whey is obviously precipitated from curd.
Remove from heat and allow the contents to sit unagitated for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, line colander with about a yard of rinsed, fine-weave cheesecloth. Set the colander in a large bowl to catch the whey. Strain the curds and whey through the colander. At this point you can add salt to the curds. The addition of salt also creates a firmer cheese by drawing more moisture from the curd, so if you'd like to keep it softer and more moist, use salt sparingly. Collect and lift the sides of the cheesecloth out of the colander and continue to strain, if a more solid cheese is desired. Your homemade cheese will last up to a week refrigerated.

I've never made my cheese with raw milk, it's very controversial now and one day I would love to try. The cheese is loaded with benefits, but there is a slim "risk factor" involved due it's not being pasteurized. I eat it any chance I get, but until I'm more expert at making it, I'm sticking with pasteurized milk. Try a few different things with your finished product. Here are some of my successes...

For more cheese recipes go HERE!

Three Butter Pancakes

Sun, 13 Jan 2008 18:05:41 -0500

THE RECIPE
3 Butter Pancakes
serving size: 12 pancakes
prep time: 20 minutes
cooking time: 15 minutes

1 1/2 cup sifted unbleached flour (see what your local options are and even experiment with replacing 1/2 cup of the white flour with nuttier, healthier flours like buckwheat, stone ground wheat, etc.)
1 1/2 tablespoon raw sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk, (use the byproduct of your homemade butter)
1 cup whole local milk
2 small local eggs
2 tablespoons butter, melted (local, or you can use some of the unflavored homemade butter you just made!)
1/2 cup local butternut squash puree (easiest way I find is to cut into 1/4 inch cubes and steam until tender)
vegetable or canola oil for frying

In a large bowl, sift together flour(s), sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a separate bowl, beat together buttermilk, milk, eggs, butternut squash puree and melted butter. Do not combine dry and wet mixtures together yet.

Heat a lightly oiled frying pan, griddle or skillet over a medium high heat. If lightly flicked water beads up and sizzles on the surface, then you are ready to combine mixtures and cook.

Using a wooden spoon (or if you absolutely have to--a wire whisk) to minimally and gently blend, pour the wet mixture into the dry mixture. Do not over stir. Pour the batter on the hot skillet by the ladle-full, or about 1/2 cup per pancake. Wait until air bubbles form and pop on first side, then flip and cook to brown on the second side. Crispy and light, these are almost like tangy, sweet crepes! Enjoy!

Video: Hubbard Squash Apple Cake

Sun, 13 Jan 2008 17:51:42 -0500

THE RECIPE
Hubbard Squash Apple Cake
serving size: 8 large slices, 16 slivers
prep time: 1 hour 30 minutes, (including squash roasting/applesauce prep)
baking time: 45 minutes-55 minutes

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and lightly flour two cake pans. I prefer 7"x2". It makes a higher, cuter cake; very tea-party.

*Cut Hubbard squash into manageable roasting slices, no more than an inch thick. Cover slices with extra virgin olive oil and roast in a 400 degree oven until tender, about 40 minutes. Slice off rind. Cut into cubes. Mash.

**For applesauce, you can buy an all-natural no-sugar-added version, or you can make your own simply by simmering down 3-4 medium/large cooking apples (peeled, cored, cubed), 3 cinnamon sticks, 1 tsp maple syrup and 1/4 cup (possibly more) water to prevent sticking. Cook on medium heat until soft. Coarsely mash.

1 2/3 cup unbleached flour, pre-sifted before measuring
1/3 cup buckwheat flour, pre-sifted before measuring
1 cup raw or turbinado sugar
1 tsp salt
2 tsp cinnamon, heaping
1/2 tsp ground clove, heaping
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg, heaping
2 tsp baking soda
3 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup melted butter
2 eggs
1 cup roasted Hubbard squash*, mashed
1 cup applesauce** (If not making your own, make sure it's thick and chunky and ALL NATURAL. Add 2 teaspoons of maple syrup to the store-bought, if desired.)

Sift all dry ingredients together ,except sugar, and set aside. Set aside. In a large bowl, cream sugar, butter and eggs. Add dry ingredients to creamed mixture, alternating with the squash/apple mixture. When thoroughly blended, add vinegar and thoroughly blend again. Turn into greased and floured cake pans. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool on bakers' racks. Remove from pans. Finish with Maple Buttered-Rum Glaze.

Maple Buttered-Rum Glaze
serving size: glazes one delicious cake
prep time/cooking time: 10 minutes
cooling time: 15 minutes

1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup maple syrup
3 tbsp dark rum

In small saucepan, bring butter and maple syrup to a boil. Immediately remove from heat and add rum. Blend to even consistency. Keep in cool place for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. When glazing, slowly drizzle a generous amount over first cake layer, making sure that it soaks into the cake. Stack second layer on top of first layer and again drizzle most of the remaining glaze over finished cake. Reserve excess glaze in a small bowl beside the cake, for those who can't get enough of this outrageous icing. A dainty spoon is a nice touch. I would not leave straws within reach however!

Video: Hubbard Squash & Quince Soup

Wed, 19 Dec 2007 14:43:41 -0500

THE RECIPE
Hubbard Squash & Quince* Soup
serving size: 6 to 8
prep time: 45 minutes
cook time: 45 minutes

6 cups, or 3 pounds roasted Hubbard squash**
2 cups, or 1 pound cooked quince***, about 4 large quince before cooking (If you don't have access to quince, simply increase amount of squash by 2 cups)
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves of garlic
4 cups simmering chicken stock, (or vegetable stock)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon honey
fresh sage leaves, about 10
kosher salt
fresh ground pepper
extra virgin olive oil
creme fraiche

*Quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a frost hardy fruit of the rose family. Related to apples and pears, it's flavor is similar those fruits, while possessing a delicate floral flavor too. It's wonderful cooked down with a bit of honey and water, and ideal for jam and marmalade due to it's high amount of pectin.

**Cut Hubbard squash into manageable roasting slices, no more than an inch thick. Cover slices with extra virgin olive oil and roast in a 400 degree oven until tender, about 40 minutes. Slice off rind cut into cubes.

***Simply pare quince and cut off bite-sized pieces. Simmer in a little water, until tender, about 30 minutes. Cut quince or substitute with apple if desired.

Cover the bottom of a large saucepan or medium stock pot with olive oil and set on medium heat. When a piece of onion sizzles in the oil, add all chopped onion and garlic. Feel free to add more olive oil to prevent onions and garlic from sticking to pan. Season with dash or two of salt. Saute and allow the onions to sweat out their moisture, stirring frequently, until tender. Add honey and 3 leaves of sage finely chopped. Saute for a minute or two more then add squash and quince, stirring to incorporate all ingredients.

Add stock a cup at a time, until squash and quince mixture is covered. Reserve extra stock. Allow mixture to simmer for about 30 minutes, adding any remaining stock if necessary or a thinner soup is desired. Ingredients should all be very tender and ready for blending. Remove from heat. Cool mixture for about 10 minutes.

Puree mixture in blender. Remove center plug of blender lid to allow steam to escape during blending. Make sure to keep blender opening covered with a kitchen towel to protect your face and hands. Add soup by ladleful and do not over pack the blender. Puree in several small batches, removing each batch to a medium saucepan.

In medium saucepan over medium heat, bring puree, cream and 1 tablespoon of butter to a gentle boil, seasoning with more salt if necessary. Remove from heat.

In small skillet, heat remaining tablespoon of butter until bubbly. Lay whole sage leaves in bubbling butter, while seasoning with salt. When crispy, remove from heat and drain on paper towel.

Serve, hot, but not piping hot. Garnish with dollop of creme fraiche per bowl, fresh ground pepper and crumbled crispy sage leaves. Crazy delicious!

Video: The Crafty Corner

Thu, 13 Dec 2007 11:41:19 -0500

Make recycled ornaments, homemade cards and other cool
stuff for your Christmas tree.

Video: Green Tomato and Apple Pie

Fri, 7 Dec 2007 17:32:08 -0500

THE RECIPE
Green Tomato and Apple Pie
serving size: 6 - 8
prep time: (not including pie crust) 20 minutes
cooking time: 45 minutes
preheat temp: 450 degrees (for 10-15 minutes) & 350 degrees (for 30 minutes)

1 recipe for two-crust pie pastry*
7-8 assorted pie-appropriate apples, peeled, cored and sliced into 1/8ths
1 cup green tomatoes, cored and sliced into bite-sizes
1 cup raw sugar
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, ideally fresh-grated
2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 tablespoons butter, divided into small pats
milk for brushing

In a large mixing bowl combine apples and tomatoes. As a general rule, move quickly when peeling and slicing apples to prevent discoloration. It doesn’t affect flavor, just aesthetic. You can toss apples in lemon juice to prevent discoloring, but it’s just another far-away ingredient that you really don’t need.

Add sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, butter and gently toss, coating the apples and tomatoes thoroughly. Arrange apple/tomato mixture in pre-baked pie shell, making sure that some butter pats remain on top of mixture.

Cover with second pie crust dough. Crimp or flute edges of top dough with bottom crust, or with pie pan edges. Cut slits into top dough for steam ventilation. Brush top crust dough gently with milk. Bake for 15 minutes in 450 degrees preheated oven for 10-15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake for 30 minutes more, or until apples are tender and crust is golden brown. Cool slightly before serving. Garnish with creme fraiche or whipped cream spiked with a dash of bourbon.

*Refer to UHFR basic pie crust recipe for crust prep instructions.

Basic Pie Crust

Fri, 7 Dec 2007 16:05:48 -0500

THE RECIPE
Basic pastry crust
serving size: 2 - 9 inch crusts for fruit/meat pie or 1 large quiche crust
prep time: 30 minutes (including rolling)
cooking time: 10-15 minutes
* Balls of dough can be refrigerated for up to a week, wrapped in damp paper towel and plastic wrap, or frozen for up to 3 months, wrapped the same with an additional layer of aluminum foil. Allow to reach room temperature before rolling.

2 cups unbleached flour, pre-sifted
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup butter
1 tablespoon solid bacon drippings (optional)
1/4 cup ice water, (possibly more may be needed)

1.Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, sift flour and salt. I like to keep all of my tools as cold as possible. This prevents the solid ingredients (butter and lard) from melting and is one step to ensure a flakey crust. Working as quickly as possible, with a pastry cutter or with two knives, cut the butter and bacon into the flour and salt mixture. At this point, I do not allow contact with my fingers and the dough. This can create a more glutinous, pasty dough and again, will inhibit flakiness.

Savory Bread Pudding

Tue, 27 Nov 2007 20:17:40 -0500

THE RECIPE
Savory After-Thanksgiving Bread Pudding

serving size: 8
prep time: 30 minutes
baking time: 45 minutes

3 cups stale baguette/Challah/or any homemade white or wheat bread, (Don't even waste time with processed bread.)
2 3/4 cups local milk
1/4 cup local bacon, cut into 1/4" cubes
1 small local onion coarsely chopped
2 cloves local garlic, minced
12-20 whole peppercorns
5 small wild bayberry leaves, dried, or 2 tropical bay leaves, dried
1/2 local apple, peeled & cored, diced
Handful of baby arugula, (of which I have a reseeded patch going strong. They like the cool weather!)
1 cup left-over Thanksgiving turkey, diced
3/4 cup grated local cheddar (or similar type) cheese
2 tablespoons sage butter divided into several pats, or local butter + 1 tsp dried sage
2 local eggs
Fresh ground pepper
Kosher salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a deep, 9" baking crock.

Saute bacon over medium-high heat in small skillet, adding onion after enough of the bacon fat has been released. Allow the onions to sweat a bit, then add garlic, a dash of ground pepper and 2 pinches of salt. Brown well. Set aside.

In medium sauce pan, over medium heat, scald milk, wild bayberry or bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and peppercorns. Remove from heat to cool slightly.

Cut a majority of crust from bread and discard. Leave some for added texture and flavor. Cut into bite-sized cubes. In buttered crock, combine: bread cubes, butter, bacon/onion/garlic mixture, apple, arugula, turkey, and 1/2 cup of cheese. Gently toss to distribute. Strain milk mixture over bread cube mixture and allow to absorb for 10-15 minutes.

In separate bowl, gently mix eggs. You need only break the yolks and blend slightly. Do not whip or beat. Add any dried sage or other dried herb you choose, and minimally blend. Pour mixture over the bread cube/milk mixture and gently stir and distribute. Again, don't overdo it. Simply distribute ingredients, sprinkle remaining 1/4 cup cheese over pudding and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes. Allow to cool slightly and still warm. Keep refrigerated, great reheated or even cold for breakfast! YUM!

Video: Grill Roasted Pork Shoulder & Chili Apple Sauce

Tue, 27 Nov 2007 18:03:06 -0500

THE RECIPE
For Chili Apple Sauce:

8-10 medium sized local apples, (I used an assortment for a rich apple flavor: Jonah Gold, Honey Crisp & McIntosh)

1-2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

5 small chili peppers (I used 2 mediumsized mild peppers & 3 super hot tiny peppers)

2 tablespoons maple syrup

2 small cinnamon sticks

10 whole cloves

fresh grate of nutmeg

1/4-1/2 cup water (to prevent apples from sticking to side of pot)

Peel, core and pare your apples. Cut into medium sized chunks. As you cut your apples, toss apple chunks in apple cider vinegar to minimize discoloration and lightly coat the apples with tartness. Finely mince one of the mild peppers and put aside. Gently stud the other mild pepper with cloves and also put aside.

Video: One Pot Veggie Marinara

Mon, 26 Nov 2007 17:59:32 -0500

THE RECIPE
One Pot Summer Marinara
serving size: If used as pasta topping, 6 servings
If frozen for later use, yields 1 1/2 quarts
prep time: 20 minutes
cooking time: 30 minutes-1 hour (the longer the simmer, the richer the sauce)

(If you have more tomatoes to work with, double the batch and freeze the finished product!)
5 medium-large heirloom or local tomatoes (I use Striped Germans and a few Romas), cored and coarsely chopped
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 medium sized onion, quartered & thinly sliced
1-3 bay leaves
fresh hot pepper, finely diced, to taste (I use ½ teaspoon habanero pepper)
dash of raw or turbinado sugar, to taste (if necessary)
balsamic vinegar, to taste (I use 1-2 tablespoons)
Worcestershire sauce, to taste (a dash for a savory edge)
fresh ground black pepper, to taste
kosher salt, to taste
2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
generous amounts of fresh: basil, oregano, thyme, sweet marjoram & tarragon (whatever you have!)

(I preface the instructions for the this recipe by noting that I don't bother peeling or seeding my tomatoes. I don't mind seeds 'n skins. If you would like to do so in your recipe, more power to you!)

In a medium-sized stockpot, big enough to accommodate all of your ingredients, heat half of your olive oil over medium heat. Add onion, salting for taste and saute until almost translucent. Add garlic. Saute for a minute or two longer to release oils in the garlic, and then add: tomatoes, bay leaves, hot pepper, balsamic vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, remaining extra virgin olive oil and black pepper. I like to salt here too. Don't go crazy though, start with 1 teaspoon and go from there. As a general rule of thumb, I like to salt in increments, simply tasting as I go. Flavor, including "saltiness", intensifies over the simmering period. Reduce heat to low and allow to simmer, stirring occasionally, for at least an hour. Add a little tepid water if the sauce reduces more than desired, and allow to return to a simmer. Right before removing from heat, add your coarsely chopped fresh herbs. Stir into the simmering marinara and turn off the heat.

Allow marinara to cool if you would like to freeze. Store in pint or quart sized plastic containers, leaving enough headroom to allow expansion. Marinara will keep in the freezer for a good 6 months and is a delicious foundation for lots of quick and easy meals!

Wine Guide to Your Thanksgiving Feast

Tue, 13 Nov 2007 23:19:29 -0500

Whites:

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Réserve Haute Culture,
Chateau du Cléray, 2004, Loire $13.
This wine which is aged on the lees (i.e. sur lie) maintains subtle yeasty notes and is light easy quaffing and it sure to be consumed no matter what it is paired with, although it’s traditional pairing would be oysters. A lively acidity and notes of peach, citrus, green apple, and pineapple all conveyed on a mineral (flint and chalk) backbone.

Gewurztraminer, Elena Walch, Kastelaz, 2005, Alto Adige $35.
Not the overly lush and tropical fruit that you might find in an Alsatian Gewurztraminer but spicy and lean enough to be paired with seafood based broths, stuffing’s and for those that love spice! Rich, concentrated and deliciously aromatic with a clear, full golden yellow color. It is incredibly light and elegant, aromatic and flowery, reminiscent of lychees and rose petals. Fresh, mellow and mouth filling but dry on the finish.

Chenin Blanc, Chateau de Chamboureau, Cuvee d’Avant, 2004, Loire Valley $25
Totally a match with any of the side dished that may be on the sweeter side, yams, butternut squash, sweet potatoes (especially the super sweet marshmallow style) because of it’s honeyed herbaceous qualities. Elegant Chenin Blanc exhibiting diverse aromas of almonds, honey, wax and wild flowers. On the palate, these aromas are complemented by complex flavours of citrus fruit and minerals.

Viognier, Cold Heaven, Lon Bon Climat, 2006, Santa Barbara $27.5
Viognier works well with white meats and can even enhance a heavier or richer sauce/gravy because of its prominent acidity. Delicate aromas of peach, guava and honey-suckle with hints of straw and springtime orchard flowers. In the mouth, it is soft (butter, Crème Fraîche) and racy (zesty acidity lively on the palate, and crisp like cold green grapes) at the same time.

Chardonnay, Jean Marc Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet,
1er Cru Champs-Gains, 2004, Cote de Beaune $50.
This is the perfect wine for someone that wants to stick with white all night; it provides a fuller structure than any of the other whites and will lend itself to any an all dishes laid out on Thanksgiving. For all its power and touches of earthiness, this wine is remarkably elegant. It delivers incredible satisfaction with its long, lush finish.

Viura/Malvasia, R. Lopez de Heredia, Vina Tondonia Reserva, 1989, Rioja $37.
White Rioja usually has incredible depth and structure, and the age on this wine from Lopez de Heredia lends a certain sophisticated and savory quality, but with a surprising acidity. Because of this wine’s tendency to be less fruity and have more secondary characteristics it makes it a perfect match for game bird. A traditional white, which is firm and lean, with layered flavors of hazelnut, orange peel, beeswax and dried apple.

Video: Setting the table

Tue, 13 Nov 2007 22:51:17 -0500

Cozyeclectic is the word for this year’s table.

How to Make NY Cheddar Cheese Grits!

Tue, 13 Nov 2007 21:18:27 -0500

THE RECIPE
NY Cheddar Cheese Grits
serving size: 4 generous helpings
prep & cooking time: 40 minutes
bake time: 40 minutes
Foraging Note: I got my bayberry leaves from Far Rockaway Beach in Queens (yes there are beaches in Queens, NY) and dried them in a paperbag.

1 1/2 cups local &/or organic whole milk
1/2 cup local &/or organic cream
2 cups water
1 1/2 tablespoons sweet cream local butter, the closer to home the better.
1 cup stone-ground grits*, NOT INSTANT
1 clove garlic, finely minced (Beautiful heirloom garlic bulbs are in the farmers' market now.)
1 bayleaf, or a 4-5 leaf twig of wild bayberry leaves** (see above Queens reference)
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt (You can always add more to your liking.)
1/8 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
dash of cayenne, (I like Connecticut cultivated Salemme pepper, www.salemmepepper.com.)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or oregano, finely minced (Ideally grow your own or find close to home.)
1 cup + 1/4 cup grated local cheddar, or cheddar-type cheese ( I love Cato Corners' Bloomsday in my grits. Remember New Yorkers, among other things, our state is known for its cheddar!)
1 egg
1/4 cup diced wild onion tops or local scallion (optional)
sprinkling of homemade bacon bits (optional)

1. Butter oven-proof crock with a teaspoon called for. Set aside. In a large sauce pan, add milk, cream and water and cover. On medium-high heat, bring to a gentle boil. Uncover, reduce heat to low, and add grits, bay leaf or bayberry leaves, garlic, salt, peppers and butter. Simmer, stirring frequently, about 30 minutes. Don't forget about it! If you do, and burn the bottom, immediately transfer to another saucepan and keep on cooking!

2. While simmering, grate a cup of your local cheddar-type cheese. After grits have absorbed the liquid and have a firm and creamy consistency, add and blend 1 cup of the grated cheese and contine to simmer for 5 minutes, constantly stirring . Remove from heat, add thyme and allow to cool for 15 minutes.

3. In small bowl or 1/2 litre glass measuring cup, gently beat the egg. Gradually add 3/4 cup of grits mixture to beaten egg, blending as you go. Then add egg and grit mixture to grits and blend thoroughly. Transfer to buttered crock, sprikle with 1/4 cup grated cheese and bake uncovered at 350 degrees F for 40 minutes, until golden around the edges. Sprikle with coarsely cut fried bacon and scallions.

When serving, be careful of the bay and bayberry leaves. They can sometimes have sharp edges. In Russian tradition, it's good luck if you get the bay leaf in your borscht and I apply the same fortune to wild bayberry leaves, just be careful. I wouldn't let children injest them whole, just remove the leaves from their serving.

*I'm lucky to have a source. When I go home to Georgia, I always leave with "the goods". My sister Lisa gave me a delicious bag of grits from the Logan Turnpike Mill in Blairsville, Georgia, where by the way, the country's largest sorghum festival is held in October!

How to Make Roasted Fennel and Pears

Tue, 13 Nov 2007 01:03:30 -0500

THE RECIPE
Roasted Fennel and Pears
serving size: 8
prep time: 20 minutes
cooking time: 20-30 minutes

2 bulbs fennel, trimmed and cut into 1/4 inch-thick wedges (and I've still seen these guys at the market)
1 1/2 lbs local pears cored and cut into 1 inch wedges
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon local honey or maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper

Ideally, the roast temperature for this recipe is 400 degrees for about 20 minutes. But if you're roasting your turkey in that 325 degree ballpark, just expect a longer roast time. This may be one of those dishes that you make after the turkey is out of the oven, as a higher temperature roasting yields a slightly firmer texture in the pear and fennel, also lending a bit more of a crunch. But the difference is subtle. You make the call.

Place all ingredients in a large bowl and toss to combine. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and place in the lower third of the oven. At 400 degrees, roast for about 20 minutes & at 325 degrees, roast for about 30 minutes. Turn both fennel and pear pieces over until golden and tender, but firm. And let this be one of the last things on the table when you sit down to eat. *Consider your alternatives to the year-in year-out Thanksgiving turkey--especially if your cooking for a small group, or if you're just plain bored with the great bird. If you are an omnivore, there are plenty of delicious game bird options: quail, pheasant, duck, squab or Cornish hens. Not to mention your red meat options like lamb, mutton and beef. Chances are you have farms within an hour of your city that raise meat and fowl. A brilliant source for these kinds of places is http://www.localharvest.org/. Type in your zip code and you'll find out about all sorts of alternative and local food sources.

How to Make Butternut Squash Dinner Rolls

Mon, 12 Nov 2007 23:38:02 -0500

THE RECIPE
Butternut Squash Dinner Rolls
serving size: 10 dinner rolls
prep time: 45 minutes
rising time: overnight, plus 1 hour
baking time: 15-20 minutes

1/2 cup pureed butternut squash
1/8 cup white sugar
1/8 cup turbinado sugar
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon allspice
1/2 cup scalded milk
1/8 oz, or 1 1/8 teaspoon, or 1/2 packet active dry yeast dissolved in 1/8 cup lukewarm water (100-110 degrees F)*
4 tablespoons butter
2 1/2 cups flour

First, peel squash and cut into 1/2 inch cubes. Steam or boil until tender. Gently mash with a fork. Cool. Add to sugars, salt, nutmeg, allspice, butter and scalded milk. Cool to lukewarm and add dissolved yeast, then flour. Mix to distribute ingredients, and barely knead. Cover dough with a cloth on a large baking sheet or in a large bowl and keep in a warm place to rise overnight. (I left mine in an unheated oven which stays fairly warm from the pilot lights. Just don't forget your rising dough in the interim and turn on the oven!)

The next day, your dough should have doubled in size. Remove from bowl and turn onto a floured board or table top. Shape into biscuits by hand, or roll out and cut. Place rolls side by side on a greased baking sheet and allow to rise again in a warm place, about 1 hour. When the cuties have doubled in size again, bake them in a preheated 375 degree oven. This could be the last of your recipes to complete before sitting at the table. It makes perfect sense to remove the turkey from the 325 degree oven, increase heat for your rolls and bake for 15-20 minutes. You can brush with butter or sage butter about 5-10 minutes before they're done and they'll arrive buttery hot to the Thanksgiving table.

*Using active yeast in breads can be daunting, but have faith. It is easy to proof the yeast: simply proof this amount of dissolved yeast with 1/2 teaspoon of sugar and subtract that amount of sugar from the amount required in the recipe. In ten minutes, the mixture should double in size by foaming. That means the yeast is active and you can proceed!
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Video: How to Make Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes

Mon, 12 Nov 2007 23:15:07 -0500

THE RECIPE
Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes
serving size: 6
prep time: 5 minutes
cooking time: 45 minutes - 1 hour

2 pounds Jerusalem artichokes (also called sun chokes)
1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
fresh ground pepper
fresh sage
thyme
2-3 bay leaves or 5-7 wild bayberry leaves*
extra virgin olive oil

Scrub well, but leave skins on sun chokes. Usually I roast these cuties at about 375 degrees for 30-45 minutes, but because the roast beast will be roasting at the temperature of 325 degrees, I say, stick with that temperature and your roast time for the sun chokes will be little longer. They should yield to a fork's pressure.

In an oven-proof crock, place cleaned and dried sun chokes.  Drizzle the 'chokes with a healthy 2-4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and evenly coat by either tossing with a spoon or by clean hand. Sprinkle kosher or sea salt, as well as fresh ground pepper, to your taste. I'm reportedly heavy handed with the salt. I use around a teaspoon of salt. You can always serve a nice fleur de sel on your Thanksgiving table for those salt junkies like myself who always need more.

Sprinkle a generous amount of coarsely chopped sage and thyme.  Here you can add your bay or bayberry leaves. Toss again to distribute. Roast for 45+ minutes in a heated 325 degree oven.

*Any of the numerous bayberry plants of the species Myrica.  I've used the leaf of the northern bayberry in lieu of tropical bay leaf. It can be recognized by its gray, waxy berries, more notably used in candle-making. When using it in recipes for stews and soups, it is advised to keep in cheesecloth or a tea infusing ball as it can be a sharp leaf. I simply take care not to break into pieces or ingest the leaves whole. The flavor imparted is lovely, slightly juniper and floral in that sea swept aromatic way.  It'll take you right back to the first Thanksgiving table. For more information about recognizing wild bayberry, refer to any of "Wildman" Steve Brill's http://www.econetwork.net/~wildmansteve/super-enlightening foraging books, some of Euell Gibbons tame stuff, as well as reputable field guides. And too, always refer to an expert source...that's not me yet!

Video: How to Make Ricotta Swiss Chard with Toasted Pine Nuts

Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:53:28 -0500

THE RECIPE
Ricotta Swiss Chard with Toasted Pine Nuts
serving size: 4-6
prep time: 15 minutes
cooking time:  15 minutes

1 1/2 - 2lbs of Swiss chard leaves, carefully cleaned with stems removed from leaf base
1/4-1/2 lb of local cow's or goat's milk ricotta (I used the latter from Lynnhaven Dairy Goats [http://www.lynnhavennubians.com/] and it was amazing! Earthy and subtly sweet.)
1/4 c toasted pines nuts (or experiment with local nuts: hazelnut, walnut, chestnuts, shagbark hickory)
2-3 strips local bacon (optional), cut into 1/2 inch cubes
salt
pepper

Toast pine nuts in a heavy skillet, using absolutely no oil. To prevent burning, continue to stir. Set aside when toasted to a deep golden brown.

Fry bacon "bits" over medium heat in a medium sized frying pan and drain aside on paper towel. Do not drain bacon drippings. ( If you would like to omit the bacon, simply coat the bottom of the unheated pan with extra virgin olive oil and add your water, then heat.)  Allow drippings to cool and add about 1/4 cup water, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan. Heat again on low medium flame, stirring slightly to distribute oil. When water steams slightly, add your Swiss chard leaves. Alternate between keeping covering the pan to allow steam to penetrate and moving the leaves from the bottom to the top with tongs. This prevents discoloration and ensures that all the leaves are evenly cooked. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to your liking while tossing leaves. When leaves are wilted and still a fresh green, they're done. Add nuts and ricotta and serve.

Video: How to Make Horseradish Cream

Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:26:30 -0500

THE RECIPE
A perfect condiment for the Thanksgiving table. Perfectly seasonal and perfectly appropriate. An earthy, pungent contrast to your mashed potatoes or root vegetables, as well as any meat on the table.

Horseradish Cream
serving size: condiment for 4
prep time: 15 minutes
cooking time: none; but let it rest at least overnight, refrigerated. Can keep at least a week.

1/4 cup gently packed fresh-grated horseradish (first peel with carrot grater to expose pure white root)
1/2 cup local creme fraiche or sour cream (sour cream is the more tart of the two)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8-1/4 cup finely diced scallions or wild onion tops (optional)

If you're going to use this in your mashed potatoes, which is an excellent idea, why not add some capers to your liking. That will really kick up your boring mashed potatoes. Or serve on the side with roasted Jerusalem Artichokes. Yummy!